Story and photos by Lexi Fisher and Chris Doyle
Almost a year ago, on July 1, 2024, Hurricane Beryl made landfall in the southern Grenadines. It had developed with a speed and intensity that broke many meteorological records and left utter destruction in its path. In the days that followed, the fate of the islands seemed grim, but international aid and the yachting community sprung into action, and it didn’t take long for both official and unofficial organizations to mobilize. Recovery was slow at first, but islanders are resourceful and many of the islands affected have recovered faster than anyone would have imaged. When I visited in December of 2024 to update the Doyle Guides Windward Islands content I was happy to find things in Bequia practically unchanged, and about a third of yachting and tourism businesses in Canouan and Mayreau were already back up and running, with another third actively rebuilding. Union was a little further behind but continues to recover, with many of the main restaurants and services now reopened.
Unlike the smaller, drier islands of the Grenadines, the St. Vincent mainland is an island of towering mountains, craggy peaks, and dramatic precipices. Everything is dressed in a tangle of dense green forest. Soufrière, a 3,000-foot volcano, dominates the northern end of the island.
Try to see some of the interior, which is totally wild. I love Montreal Gardens in the Mesopotamia Valley. Perched upon the very threshold of the mountains, it is at the end of the road. Tim Vaughn and his team maintain these gardens as a work of art. Winding paths, dense vegetation, a river, and broad views make the gardens a perfect place to spend an hour or two away from it all.
Moving south, Bequia has long been a favorite of yachtspeople. Isolated enough to remain relatively unspoiled, yet lively enough to be stimulating and entertaining, it provides a blend of the old and new that many find perfect. It is well connected with St. Vincent and the other Grenadines, both by a small airport and by the cheaper and more traditional ferries. Some yachtspeople leave their boats anchored in Bequia and take a ferry to visit St. Vincent.
Bequia is an island of sailors and boats, linked to the outside world mainly by the sea, and the old traditions continue. Boats are built on the beach in the shade of palm trees, though these days the building methods are a lot more high tech, and the traditional fishing boats have morphed into sports boats capable of speeds well over 10 knots. Bequians travel all over the world on cargo vessels; quite a few have ended up owning their own, and some are intrepid fishermen who venture all over the Grenadines in little open boats.
Colin Tennant developed Mustique as a playground for the rich and famous. The house owners subsequently bought the island from him and have restricted further development. House prices have soared from about a million dollars to over ten times that much. Ownership has transitioned from celebrities to business people who value their privacy.
Mustique has about 90 large houses, one hotel, a beach bar, a few boutiques, a small local village, and a fishing camp. About half the houses are available for rent when the owners are not in residence. As you would expect for an island of this type, prices are geared to the well-heeled.
Canouan is a lovely island with spectacular beaches, pleasant walks, and great views almost anywhere. Walk up the hill to the east and see the fabulous windward lagoon, where an outer reef protects the island. It is also an island of three parts. The local central part has moved from a sleepy backwater of small wooden houses and fields of pigeon peas to a prosperous settlement of big solid houses. This local area surrounds the main anchorage and is warm and welcoming; the people are friendly and provide a variety of services to yachtspeople.
Mayreau is rimmed with pristine beaches and offers spectacular views from the hill. It is one of the smaller, locally inhabited Grenadines, with just one village. Originally the whole island was owned by the Eustace family of St. Vincent and the inhabitants owned no land. Then land in the village was made available to them, and now much of the island has been sold.
Most islanders on Mayreau are happy to see visitors, and indeed yachts are a mainstay of the economy. You can and should walk around the island, up to the village and down the other side, and explore the windward beaches. A road runs from Saline Bay to Salt Whistle Bay, with many side roads.
The Tobago Cays are a group of small, uninhabited islands protected from the sea by Horseshoe Reef. The water and reef colors are a kaleidoscope of gold, brown, blue, turquoise, and green. Small beaches of white sand blend into luminous, clear water. On cloudless nights the stars are cast across the sky like wedding confetti thrown in an excessive gesture of bonhomie. Even squalls can be dramatically beautiful as they approach from afar. The anchorage is, however, open to the full force of the ocean winds, which are sometimes strong.
Union stands out from afar with its dramatically mountainous outline. Clifton, the main harbor, is protected by a reef that shows off its brilliant kaleidoscopic colors and patterns as you sail in. If you anchor or take a mooring out near the reef, the water to the east is an expanse of brilliant green turquoise; jump in the clear, clean water and snorkel on the reef (but watch out for kitesurfers).
Ashore, the main town of Clifton was hit hard by the hurricane and has been slower to recover than on other islands, in no small part because it is so far from mainland St. Vincent, making the transport of supplies an ongoing struggle. Despite this, Union Islanders are welcoming and friendly, and major yacht services and a couple of restaurants have already reopened, while other continue to rebuild. Provisioning is fair, with the large grocery store in town fully operational and a handful of market stalls along the main road. The roads and trails offer the best hiking and biking in the Grenadines and the viewpoints are as stunning as ever.
Petit St. Vincent (PSV) and Petite Martinique lie just a short sail southeast of Union. While both are part of the geographical Grenadines chain, PSV is part of the country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and Petite Martinique is part of the country of Grenada.
PSV was probably the first Caribbean boutique hotel. It is a quiet and exclusive resort, where the guests get pampered in secluded stone cottages, though it has not yet reopened after the hurricane.
Getting tired of all the tourists? Petite Martinique (PM) is small and authentic, with no tourist bones in its body. I love to overnight here, take a long walk, and have a meal ashore. It is a good place to look for bargains on beer, liquor, and wine. The inhabitants live by boatbuilding and seafaring (and, in days of old, smuggling). Fishing has always been important, and currently, long-line tuna fishing is very successful. Many vessels lie at anchor and the docks are far busier than the roads.
St. Vincent and the Grenadines offer some of the best and most idyllic cruising in the area. From the sandy atolls of the Grenadines to the lush peaks of the mainland, the contrasting landscapes serve to complement the sense of adventure that comes with island-hopping your way through this magnificent archipelago.
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St Vincent & the Grenadines Entry and Exit Procedures from Noonsite
Ports of Entry:
There are multiple ports of entry: Five on the main island of St. Vincent and 1 on each of Bequia, Mustique, Canouan and Union Islands. See SVG Main Ports for more details on the ports of entry.
Advance Paperwork:
All visiting yachts should pre-register with SailClear prior to arrival.
For visitors from many countries, a visa is not required. Stays of up to six months may be granted.
Entry Process:
All vessels must clear in with customs, immigration, and the port authority in a port of entry upon arrival. The captain should present the SailClear notification ID number, three crew lists, clearance from previous port, crew passports and boat paperwork. A 30-day cruising permit is granted on check-in.
Exit Process:
Same as the entry process; clear out at one of the ports of entry.
Rates:
Private vessels must pay a monthly cruise tax of $35 XCD per person on all crew and passengers over the age of 12. Charter boats must be in possession of a St. Vincent & the Grenadines cruising license.
Check Noonsite for more detailed information and updates. This information is provided by Noonsite.com, specialists in worldwide formalities for yachts, and was accurate at press time.
