Story and photos by Chris Doyle and Lexi Fisher
Even though the parades, pumped-up music, and feathered costumes of the Dutch Sint Maarten carnival are over, you’ll never not be able to find a good time on this island of two nations. From the clothing-optional shores of Orient Bay to the flashing lights of casinos and the fine dining of posh French restaurants, entertainment is never in short supply.
Although this island is barely seven miles in each direction, it is perhaps the best-known holiday destination in the Leewards. It is blessed with a multitude of superb white sand beaches backed by pleasantly scenic hills. Its fame has come from the way it has embraced tourism wholeheartedly, with casinos, condominiums, and scores of hotels. The whole island is a duty-free shopping plaza. Shopping is not restricted to cruise ship passengers. Two of the Caribbean’s biggest chandleries are based here: Budget Marine and Island Water World. With the help of their customers, they have generated enough buying power to offer excellent prices to yachts.
St. Martin is divided across the middle. The northern part is French, and the southern part is Dutch. There is a charming story, utterly unsupported by historical fact, that the French and Dutch were so civilized that, rather than fight over the island, they had a Frenchman armed with a bottle of wine walk in one direction and a Dutchman equipped with a flask of gin take the other. Where they met became the boundary, and the French ended up with a bit more because the gin was stronger than the wine.
In the early days, the island was important to the Dutch because of the salt ponds in the southern part, which is why they settled there. St. Martin was successful for a time as a producer of tobacco, and then of sugar. With the collapse of the sugar market, it started a long decline. In 1939 an attempt was made to halt this downward trend by making the island completely duty-free. The strategy worked and St. Martin became the Caribbean’s number one shopping mall.
In 2017 the island was hard hit by hurricane Irma, which caused extensive damage to the infrastructure of the island. Many marinas, hotels, and restaurants were blown away, most notably Oyster Pond and the French side of Simpson Bay Lagoon. Some establishments never rebuilt, but most did, and hotels are still everywhere, cruise ships call daily, and there are hundreds of duty-free shops and restaurants, as well as over a dozen casinos. The tourism industry has quickly recovered, especially in Marigot Bay, and there are facilities for most kinds of yacht work.
The Dutch side has the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, which organizes many regattas and rallies, and which cruising sailors can join. The club is right next to the Simpson Bay bridge, with a good dinghy dock. Wander upstairs and ask the manager for the racing and social program. They have a very active youth sailing program and, if you are staying a while, you can join the club and your kids can enjoy the fun.
The Heineken Regatta, a world-famous international event that draws many famous yachts, is on the first full weekend in March. The Course D’Alliance, in December, is a three-day cruiser’s race from St. Martin to St. Barts, then onto Anguilla. If you have a catamaran, you can join in the Caribbean Multihull Challenge in February. There are many more events, including informal races, year-round.
Both sides of the island have marine parks. Yachts can anchor or pick up a mooring in most of the marine park anchorages. Fishing is not allowed in any of the marine parks and the French really enforce this. Moorings for divers and snorkelers are on many sites. The French marine park goes from Oyster Pond to Tintamarre and surrounds Roche Creole. The only permissible overnight anchorages in the park are at Tintamarre and Roche Creole, where you must first get permission from the park by filling out and emailing the form available at reservenaturelle-saint-martin.com/en/camping-mouillage. Fishing, taking of anything, jet skis, any motorized water sports, drones, underwater lights, loud music, deck or hull cleaning, emptying holding tanks, and water skiing are all banned within these areas.
Both the French and the Dutch sides have quite a few marinas and haulouts that are worth considering for the hurricane season, assuming your insurance company doesn’t require you to be outside certain latitudes.
