by Heather B. Hamilton
For many cruisers, visiting Dominica is the highlight of their trip through the Eastern Caribbean, its countless natural wonders prompting weeks of exploration. While the best way to discover the island is with a certified guide, cruisers on a budget — or those just wanting to explore a bit on their own — can find exciting walks minutes away from the dinghy docks at Portsmouth in Prince Rupert Bay.
While a guided tour up the Indian River is something you definitely should not miss, it’s possible to get a different feel for the river on foot. In the 45-minute trip from town, you’ll pass through jungle and dry forests full of magnificent tropical flowers and beautiful views. But the river itself is the real treat: it meanders through the forest, dappled sunlight flickering across the massive swamp bloodwood trees lining its banks. The trees’ undulating roots spread across the ground in vast waves then dip into the water, creating a surreal patchwork of curves. Each vista is more amazing than the last, and everyone in our party exclaimed in delight and surprise each time we turned a corner. At the end of the trail lies the charming Indian River Bush Bar where you can enjoy a cold beer or the infamous “Dynamite” rum punch.
If you’re feeling battered from your passage to Dominica, you might want to consider heading for a natural hot spring where you can soak your tired bones. The short (less than half an hour), easy walk from the Customs dock takes you through some beautiful jungle and past stunning bloodwood trees before you reach the natural hot tub — don’t forget your bathing suit!
Both hikes are easy walks, but you may encounter mud and will need to scramble
over roots, so wear appropriate shoes.
Directions for the Portsmouth Area Hikes
INDIAN RIVER HIKE: Leave your dinghy at the main fishing dock. Walk south along the main street. Turn left at the bus station; you will pass the cricket pitch on the way out of town. Turn right onto a lane with a sign marked “Rainforest Riding” on the right and a yard with heavy machinery on the left. You will cross a stream on a concrete bridge; about 100 metres after that, look for an electrical pole marked with a small, yellow plaque numbered “019584” and “SEG II” over “63” in red spray paint. There is a small trail off to the right just after this pole that will take you to the bar. You will need to ford one shallow stream on the way.
HOT SPRING HIKE: From the Customs dock just south of Portsmouth, turn left on the lane that leads you to the main road. This lane dead-ends into Michael Douglas Road right where it makes a sharp turn away from the water. Turn right to follow the road up a sharp hill. Just as the road starts curving right, you will see a small, gravel lane on the left with signs reading “Portsmouth Gospel Mission Assembly” and “Car Wash.” Turn left on this lane and follow it through a group of houses until you reach a small, concrete bridge over a stream. Just before the bridge, a small trail leads off to the right. You will cross the small stream three times before reaching the hot spring at the end of the path.
Heather B. Hamilton spent 15 years in Washington, DC trying to save the world before packing it in, buying a sailboat and setting out to see the world in November 2010.She and her husband, Pip, are currently exploring the Caribbean on Picaroon.
