Story and photos by Lexi Fisher
“We’re in FRANCE!” Katrina announced as we putted ashore in the dinghy to clear customs. I once again reveled at the fact that Europe, which usually feels so far away from the Caribbean, is just a half-day sail from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. Well, the French territory of Martinique at least, with its imports and brand names, Paris fashions, and more stinky cheese than you can shake a baguette at. On its fringes Martinique is still a Caribbean island, with palm-flanked white sand beaches, tropical fruits, and clear turquoise waters. But travel inland a few dozen meters, or visit one of the many large shopping malls, and you’re suddenly swept into a world of designer clothing and fine wine. All of the Caribbean islands have a colonial influence, but while most others have gained independence, Martinique has been under French rule since King Louis XIII planted the flag in 1685, and shares deeply-rooted culture and customs with the European mainland.
As we picked up one of the 230 mooring balls in Le Marin, it had been almost exactly three years since I’d been in Martinique. The last time was in February of 2020, just before the world was thrust into the turmoil of Covid. I’d arrived on the same boat, Ti Kanot, and with the same crew—Chris Doyle, the original author of the Doyle Cruising Guides, and Katrina Kelshall, one of our ad sales representatives. Chris was now easing into his first year of full retirement while Katrina and I pounded the pavement visiting the sights and services, meeting with businesses, and updating the guidebook info.
Our tour began in Marin, where we found surprisingly few changes, and our first order of business was to meet with Douglas Rapier at Douglas Yacht Services, a friend and trusted source of local knowledge. Douglas, also easing into a well-deserved retirement, was joined by his team, Marie-Eugene, Hoelenn, and Meyne, who eagerly filled us in on what they knew of the local yachting establishments and services, both old and new.
One of the new things they mentioned that piqued our interest was the Yacht Club du Marin. Located in a modest, unassuming single-story house across the road from the Nautical Block, it is surrounded by a meandering garden of vines, orchids, and ferns. The large YCM sign at the front gate left no doubt that we had found the right place. We were greeted by Marie, the treasurer, on the nautical-themed verandah, complete with burgees and teak tabletops. Together with Pascal, the president, they create a warm and welcoming home away from home for all sailors. A library and office space adjoins the verandah and small, affordable bar where you sit amongst tropical foliage. The large backyard has a workshop with a verity of tools for most boat projects, and there is a small pavilion and stage for occasional yoga classes or live entertainment. The yacht club provides a space for sailors to host meals and events with visiting friends and family, has wifi, a book exchange, a computer, and storage space for luggage when you don’t have space on board. They encourage all sailors to apply for membership (60 Euros per person per year) and host a potluck meet and greet on the first Friday of every month.
Down the road in the Marina Mall most of the pre-Covid restaurants had persisted, with an interesting addition. O’Wax by Boko Koncept, right in the center square of the mall, makes and sells pre-made desserts and entrees, and freshly squeezed juices, dips and tapenades beautifully packaged in large glass jars, so you can see all the delicious sauces and ingredients. Mushroom risotto, scallops in a creamy sauce over rice, and vegetarian lasagne are among the dozen or so mains, plus tapas or appetizer options like babaganouch, olive tapenade, and pates. You can buy them to take home and heat, or pay a service fee to sit and enjoy a meal there. They also have locations in Fort de France and Ducos.
After about a week in Marin we made the short passage south, past the conspicuous Club Med on the peninsula, to the picturesque anchorage of St. Anne. The long strip of white sand beach backed by dense palms was a welcome sight after the urban marina landscape of Marin. A few restaurants ashore had turned over, not surprising after three years and a global pandemic. On the beach, Filet Bleu is now Bao Beach, a chic beach hangout with sun loungers and cocktail tables in the shallow water. It is more expensive than the other nearby restaurants but has a nice ambiance with beach umbrellas and fancy blended cocktails. You need to have a meal to use the sun loungers, however, and the customer service is quite…relaxed.
There is no shortage of dining options along the beach, most of which open up in the afternoon to serve lunch, cold beer, and beachfront cocktails. Quite a few are small food truck operations, mostly serving local creole dishes, bbq, and accras, or fritters. I happily and unexpectedly stumbled upon a couple trucks selling hot, fresh churros (known locally as chi chi), which were definitely worth the price tag of a few Euros.
Sweet tooth satisfied, we headed north to Grand Anse d’Arlet. The town has had a tumultuous relationship with yachting, twice having filled the bay with moorings and banned anchoring, just to have the mooring top lines go missing. We managed to tie onto one of the few remaining mooring balls, although from the number of yachts at anchor it seems that anchoring is no longer prohibited. You shouldn’t have a problem finding a mooring block to tie to if you’re willing to dive for it.
Grand Anse d’Arlet is a quaint town, where the narrow main road divides small, brightly-colored wooden buildings from the line of beach restaurants where you dine with your toes in the sand. It’s worth taking the 30-minute hike over the hill to Les Anses d’Arlet, arguably the most picturesque beachfront village in Martinique. The tall spire of the church towers over the base of the dock, creating a great sense of symmetry and grandeur. Flanked by gazebos roofed in red clay tiles, the waterfront promenade is beautifully landscaped, with interesting sculptures and vivid bougainvillia flowers cascading over old brick walls. Like Grand Anse, it is very much a tourist town where people come to lounge on the beach and snorkel among the many sea turtles that hang out in the bays. If you’re looking for a more secluded anchorage, head north to Anse Noir and Anse Dufour, two charmingly rural bays where the sound of tree frogs and crickets punctuate the evenings. There are very limited dining options though, and fishermen may ask you to move in the morning, but the snorkeling, especially in the cave between the bays, is wonderful.
Over in the hustle and bustle of the capital, Fort de France, we got news that the yacht services compound in Baie de Tourelles had been taken over by the Maxi Marine group and is now operating under the name Maxi Boat Yard. They have brought in all new equipment, including a 75-ton travelift and a forklift for smaller boats. A series of a dozen or so new power boat lifts has been installed, and they have a large fishing store, chandlery, and workshop. Boats with a draft of 9 feet or less can come alongside, and artisans and engineers can do everything you need.
In Fort de France we finally got to try out a new provision service called Appel a Tous. It is an app-based service that does grocery delivery right to your boat at anchor, on a mooring, or on the dock, in all of the south coast bays as well as the Trois Islet area. They have a large inventory that features many local products and fresh produce. Curated baskets according to number of people and length of trip make it easy to provision for a charter. They are sailors themselves and understand the types of products yachtspeople are looking for. Frozen and refrigerated items are delivered in insulated bags and coolers, and ordering is quick, easy, and affordable—the delivery fee is just five Euros. They also sell their wonderfully colorful branded merchandise, as well as our cruising guides. Simply download the app, fill your cart, drop a pin in your location, and someone in a brightly-patterned uniform will make the delivery. They plan to expand their operations to other islands, so keep an eye out wherever you’re anchored.
Continuing north, we made our way to St. Pierre, which sits at the base of the Mount Pelee volcano. There is a science center (The Centre de Decouverte des Sciences de la Terre) dedicated to the famous 1902 eruption, which killed the entire population of 30,000 people in an instant, except for a single survivor, Louis-Auguste Cyparis, who was jailed in a stone cell. The science center is about a 20-minute walk from town and is a worthwhile visit. They now have guided audio tours in English or French that you can access through your smartphone by scanning a QR code. There is a large theatre upstairs where an immersive 50-minute film about Mount Pelee and the other regional volcanos is shown. It is in French, but they will put on English subtitles if you ask.
Back in town, the recently-opened Creole Arts Cafe is located in the very first building to be rebuilt after the 1902 eruptions. It was rebuilt with extra fortifications to withstand future eruptions, including a safe room that looks a lot like Cyparis’ jail cell. The building has now been turned into a charming cafe and art gallery, where you can browse local handicrafts, jams, and soaps, sip coffee or fresh juice, use the WiFi, or grab a quick pre-made lunch. Upstairs is a large gallery space and balcony with tables and chairs, where you browse the art or can sit with a drink and watch the world go by.
We made one final grocery run, and as we sailed away from under the shadow of Mount Pelee I left Martinique with a new appreciation for the volcanic forces of nature, and with the largest wheel of brie I’ve ever seen.
Lexi Fisher is a Grenadian-born travel writer and the CEO of Doyle Guides, Chris Doyle’s popular series of sailing guides.
