Story and photos by Margarita Askolskaya
Off Panama’s Caribbean coast lies an archipelago of emerald jewels known as the San Blas Islands — 365 small isles and reefs, some no bigger than a sandbar. Here, among the crystal-clear waters and coral reefs, live the Guna Indians, a community deeply connected to the rhythms of the sea and land. During our sailing adventures, we were fortunate to step into their world, where we met Patrick, a Guna fisherman, and learned not just about their culture but also their delectable cuisine.
On Patrick’s island, we were greeted by his family and led to a small, open-air kitchen shaded by coconut palms. The ingredients were simple: freshly caught conchs, plantains, coconuts, rice, and a handful of vibrant vegetables from a small garden inland.
Patrick demonstrated how to expertly extract conch meat from the shell, using a swift technique that involved boiling the shell briefly and then pulling out the tender meat. “You can also break the shell,” he added, laughing as we struggled to perfect the art.
Once cleaned, the conchs were diced and set aside for the stew.
Patrick’s friend Donny showed us how to grate fresh coconut flesh, extracting creamy milk by squeezing the pulp through a cloth. “This is what makes our rice special,” he explained. The rich, fragrant milk was heated with a pinch of salt and sugar before adding the rice.
As the rice cooked, Donny saved the leftover coconut flakes for dessert, promising us a sweet surprise later. “Coconut is everything here,” he said. “Food, oil, even shelter — it’s part of our life.”
While the rice simmered, we prepared ripe plantains, slicing them thinly and frying them until golden brown. For the stew, Donny sautéed onions, peppers, and tomatoes in coconut oil before adding the diced conchs. A splash of rum and a pinch of curry brought depth to the dish, while the aromas filled the air.
Using seasonal vegetables, we tossed a simple salad of crisp cucumbers, sweet tomatoes, and fresh greens dressed with lime and a touch of salt.
When the food was ready, Patrick reached for a large, beautifully polished conch shell. Holding it to his lips, he blew a long, deep note that echoed across the island. “This is how we let our family know it’s time to eat,” he said with a grin.
Patrick told us about the rich oral history of the Guna people, passed down from generation to generation through songs. “This night deserves its own song,” he said. He began composing a melody on the spot, singing of friendship, shared meals, and the beauty of cultural exchange.
As the sun set over the San Blas Islands, Donny smiled and said, “Mas Maya,” which in the Guna language means “very delicious.” And indeed, it was. We felt a profound gratitude — this wasn’t just a meal; it was a celebration of life, community, and connection.
Coconut Rice (Arroz con Coco)
2 cups of white rice
1 large coconut (or 1 cup canned coconut milk for convenience)
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
2 cups water
1. Extract coconut milk (if using fresh coconut): Grate the coconut and squeeze the pulp with 1.5 cups of warm water to extract the milk. Strain and set aside.
2. In a pot, combine the coconut milk, salt, sugar, and 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil.
3. Add the rice, stir, and reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 18-20 minutes.
4. Let sit for 5 minutes before fluffing with a fork.
Conch Stew with Tomatoes and Peppers
4 medium conchs (cleaned and diced; substitute squid or clams if unavailable)
2 medium tomatoes (diced)
1 bell pepper (diced)
1 medium onion (diced)
2 cloves garlic (minced)
1 tbsp. coconut oil
1 tbsp. curry powder
2 tbsp. white rum
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Heat coconut oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add garlic, onion, and bell pepper, sautéing until softened.
2. Add tomatoes and cook until they break down into a sauce.
3. Stir in the diced conch, curry powder, and a splash of rum. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the conch is tender and the flavors meld.
Fried Sweet Plantains
4 ripe plantains
Coconut oil for frying
1. Peel and slice the plantains diagonally into thick pieces.
2. Heat coconut oil in a frying pan over medium heat.
3. Fry the plantains until golden brown and caramelized on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.
Guna Garden Salad
2 medium cucumbers
2 medium tomatoes
1 1/3 cups mixed greens
Juice of 2 limes
Salt to taste
1. Slice the cucumbers and tomatoes. Toss with mixed greens in a bowl.
2. Drizzle with lime juice and season with salt. Serve immediately for a fresh, tangy side dish.
Serving Suggestion
For a complete Guna-inspired meal, serve the coconut rice alongside the conch stew, with fried plantains and the garden salad as sides. Each dish brings a balance of savory, sweet, and tangy flavors, just as we experienced on the San Blas Islands.
Enjoy your meal, and as the Guna might say, “Mas Maya” — delicious food. Let it be a celebration of connection and community!
