Story and photos by Lexi Fisher & Chris Doyle
By the time Columbus sailed in to Marie-Galante, he had run out of saints, so he named this island after one of his boats. From afar, Marie-Galante looks as flat as a pancake, but when you get close you realize that, as pancakes go, it is quite substantial; over 300 feet in elevation in many places and over 600 feet at its highest point. The soil includes much clay, so the land retains the rain and is thickly wooded and green, with many palm trees along the coast. It is a relaxed, unhurried island, an ideal place to slow down, eat good Créole meals (Marie-Galante’s Créole cooking is some of the best in the French Antilles), take quiet walks, and have a long stretch of beach largely to yourself.
Marie-Galante is one of Guadeloupe’s many offshore islands, though one of only a few that are inhabited. Grand Bourg, on the southwest coast, is the capital, but St. Louis, in the north, is the yachting center of the island. The town faces a large bay, 15-20 feet deep, with good holding in sand and weed, which makes it a good base from which to explore the island. St. Louis is small, but you don’t have to look too hard to find all the usual modern conveniences; an ATM, pharmacy, supermarkets, a launderette, boutiques, boulangeries, and lots of restaurants for a town of its size.
Marie-Galante has a population of about 10,000 and is great for touring by bike, car, or scooter. It is an island of dense dry forests, lots of fruit trees, and big areas of sugar cane. The traffic is light, so you do not fear for your life on a scooter, which you can rent for as little as €30 per day. These have the advantage of allowing you to amble along the tiny farm roads that would challenge a car.
Some 50 high-tech windmills on the east coast produce electricity for Marie-Galante. At one time, around 600 windmills ground sugar cane across the island, and it was once one of the most productive sugar islands in the Lesser Antilles, its economy built on the labor of enslaved people. Seventy-three old windmills survive in various states of repair. None are commercially used, though Le Moulin de Bezard has been fully restored to working order and is one of the few places in the islands to see an old-fashioned working windmill.
Look out for an exceptional beach at Capesterre, and a couple more to its south. A barrier reef lies quite close to shore along these beaches, creating beautiful, turquoise, shallow lagoons with good snorkeling just a short swim away. If this makes you hungry, Capesterre has several restaurants for your midday meal.
In the northeast of the island, you can visit Gueule Grand Gouffre, a round sinkhole with a rim about 200 feet high, smooth sides, and an arch at the bottom open to the sea. There are majestic cliffs around the east coast, and a short walk in the area of Caye Plate will show you the best. Hikers will be pleased to know that hiking trails have been laid out all over the island. The tourist office sells a useful trail booklet with maps, and staff can usually assist even if your French is limited.
From a yachting perspective, the beach at Anse Canot and those to the south of St. Louis will be major attractions.
If you are approaching from the north, the cliffs and low-lying Îlet du Vieux Fort stand out as landmarks. If approaching from the west, you can make out the huge, renovated sugar dock and crane off Pte. Folie Anse and the town of St. Louis. If you are heading from St. Louis to Grand Bourg, note that it is quite shallow up to half a mile out.
Doyle Guides contain the Eastern Caribbean’s most comprehensive and reliable sailing information, available in hard copy and online through a free mobile app, website, and Facebook group. (www.doyleguides.com).
Guadeloupe/Marie Galante Entry and Exit Procedures
Advance Paperwork
Customs and Immigration clearance in the French Antilles can be completed online. This Noonsite French Antilles Clearance Guide explains the process. [www.noonsite.com/report/french-antilles-clearance-for-yachts]
For visitors from many countries, a visa is not required.
Entry Process
Yachts that complete online clearance are free to explore Guadeloupe, with no further steps required. For yachts unable to complete formalities online, in-person clearance remains available at approved clearance computers.
Ports of Entry (POE)
The approved clearance computers for Marie Galante are in Boutique Chez Zeles, Saint Louis, and the customs offices in Grand Bourg. Full details on all Guadeloupe ports of entry can be found via the blue “Explore Country” button on Noonsite.
Exit Process
The same options as entry apply. Yachts requiring a departure stamp should plan to visit an office with approved clearance computers for endorsement. Departments of France (St. Martin, St. Barts, Guadeloupe, and Martinique) all require yachts to clear out of one, before sailing to another.
Rates
There are no Customs and Immigration fees. There is a small admin fee (5 Euros) for use of approved clearance computers.
This information is provided by Noonsite.com, specialists in worldwide formalities for yachts, and was accurate at press time. Check Guadeloupe Clearance on Noonsite for more detailed information and updates [free log-in required].
