By Lexi Fisher
Carriacou holds a special place in my heart. I remember holidays as a child with my family in Harvey Vale, the village on the shore of Tyrell Bay, in a small collection of guesthouse cottages that are now, coincidentally, my home and office. We spent most of our time on the beach across the street, building sandcastles, snorkeling, and marveling at the bioluminescence that illuminated the waterline at night. I remember always being at ease with the quietness and simplicity of life here. Perhaps that’s why, nearly two decades later, after I had met my partner during our dive instructor training on the island, the choice to build our lives together in Carriacou was an obvious one.
After more than three years on an island of less than 13 square miles, we are still discovering pockets that are timeless and breathtaking in their raw, natural beauty. Most recently, we took a day trip to the northern end of the island and to the
village of Windward, the traditional boatbuilding capital of Carriacou, to take photos and notes to include in the 2021-2022 edition of the Cruising Guide to the Windward Islands.
We were already regular visitors to Windward, but the main draw had always been Pizza Meh Heart. Affectionately known as Teena’s, this pizzeria is in a cute traditional wooden building perched on a small hillside overlooking the main road and the sea beyond, and worth the 30-minute drive from Tyrell Bay. Teena, originally from Colorado, has been in Carriacou long enough to be considered a local. She serves both slices and whole pizzas, hot from the pizza oven, for lunch and dinner every day but Tuesday, when she gives the hardworking staff a worthy break.
The village of Windward is scattered along a coastal road that overlooks a broad, shallow bay. Beyond the barrier reef, Petite Martinique and Petit St. Vincent (PSV) sit quietly. The entrance to the anchorage is sometimes marked, but the marks are unreliable and entry is best when aided by local knowledge. With good weather and good visibility, it is possible for boats with less than a six-foot draft to eyeball their way in — with caution.
If you visit Windward by car (which is worthwhile), the adventure actually starts at Princess Royal Hospital, just north of Hillsborough. Perched atop the hill in Belair, it boasts one of the best and most accessible views on the island. From here we could see the entire southern part of Carriacou and the offshore islands of Isle de Ronde. On a clear day, the outline of Grenada looms in the distance.
From the hospital, we traveled towards the coast past one of Carriacou’s signposted historical sites: an old windmill once used to crush sugar cane. The windward coastal road is dry and ragged, perched between sheer ocean cliffs and windswept shrubs. It left us with no doubts about the power of the ocean. Ningo Well, another signposted historical site, is nearby and dates back to the 1740s. Huge and oval, it is a stark reminder of the horrors of slavery. It was built by enslaved people and then used to produce indigo dye, a process that released toxic
fumes and resulted in many deaths.
On the same road is Tibeau Cemetery, set between a dramatic landscape of bare and twisted manchineel trees and crashing waves. Presumably, due to a combination of erosion and sea level rise, many gravesites and their adjoining tombstones are now in the surf. The oldest gravestone we found was dated 1757. It is an active cemetery, so be respectful when visiting.
On the other side of Windward is the Petit Carenage beach (also known as Lilet).
The Sanctuary and Nature Trail offer an easy walk, great for bird watching. It was dry when we went, but can be muddy and buggy in the rainy season, when insect repellant is a must. The path is well signposted and goes south past mud flats, a tidal pool, and an area of mangrove restoration, up a birdwatching tower, and onward to a mangrove nursery project. We followed the beach north to find a gazebo that houses information on the hawksbill and leatherback sea turtles that nest on the beach between March and August. Peak nesting season is June, when leatherback and hawksbill nesting activities overlap on the same beaches.
At the north end of Petit Carenage is Carriacou’s northern headland, Gun Point. It is technically part of St. Vincent & the Grenadines — the line of latitude that divides Grenada and SVG runs just north of Petite Martinique, but cuts off a hundred feet or so of Gun Point. This was an easy hike through cacti and scrub (sturdy shoes are recommended). To get there, we followed the main road to just before the cutback at the top of the hill.
The path starts to the left of the large pale-yellow house. Steep at first, it quickly flattens out. The path is unmarked and difficult to follow at parts, but the shrubs are generally low enough that it was easy to see what direction we were traveling in.
We found an old rusted cannon among a lovely variety of cacti on the northern tip of the point, with a spectacular view of northern Carriacou and Union Island.
It wasn’t part of our visit on this particular day, but if you continue driving around to the leeward side of the island (on a rough dirt road) you will come to the trailhead for High North, Carriacou’s highest peak. It is a moderate to difficult hike, and takes about two hours. The trail is signposted, but to get the most out of the experience, hire a nature guide (see below).
The KIDO foundation maintains the conservation efforts and nature trails at Petit Carenage and High North. They train guides for High North hiking and wildlife watching, Petit Carenage nesting sea turtle watching, mangrove planting and restoration carbon-offset tours, and bird watching. Nature guides can be contacted through the Carriacou Tourism Office in Hillsborough (+1-473-443-7948).
Farther down the road is the path to Anse La Roche. A moderate hike, it has a nice view of Union and takes about half an hour to reach the beach. The anchorage at Anse La Roche is a short sail from Hillsborough and is a great lunch stop. Tim Garraway has built a small restaurant and beach bar here, though there is controversy over how it will affect sea turtle nesting.
If this all sounds like too much work and you are just looking for a great meal, Bogles Round House is nearby, and is one of our favorite places for a romantic dinner.
It is a one-minute walk from the main bus route, or you can anchor off Bogles (Sparrow Bay) and dinghy ashore, swells permitting. If you have a group of six or more they will provide free transportation from Hillsborough or Tyrrel Bay, or you can take a taxi. The setting is almost magical, with its domed white ceiling and circular windows made from old wagon wheels and industrial machinery. A beautifully finished old tree trunk sits upright in the center, with one of its stubs shaped like a cow’s head and adorned with a bell. Roxanne, the chef and owner, whips up a delicious fusion of Caribbean and International flavors, and never disappoints. She bakes her own bread and makes fresh homemade ice cream as well. Dinners are elegant, and they sometimes serve more casual lunches (call ahead to make sure they will be open). It is a popular place, so dinner reservations are recommended (+1-473-443-7841).
So, the next time you are in Carriacou, don’t forget to go beyond Tyrrel Bay and Hillsborough and include a trip to the northern part of the island. Be careful though, it may just capture your heart, like it did mine.
