By Mary Heckrotte
For newcomers to the islands, the good news about so many tropical fruits and vegetables is that you can treat them like something non-tropical that is already familiar. Like making mango crisp instead of apple crisp, mashing plantains for a side dish instead of potatoes, or making french-fries from breadfruit. West Indian pumpkin falls in the same category. Sliced and baked with a bit of butter and brown sugar, butternut squash or acorn squash and West Indian pumpkin would be difficult to tell apart. But that’s not to say there aren’t some fine pumpkin dishes in their own right.
Pumpkins, which are actually a fruit and not a vegetable, are native to the Americas. North American Indians called them “isquotm squash.” Cultivation and use of pumpkins spread with early European explorers to the rest of the world. The word pumpkin comes from the Greek word “pepõn” which means large melon, transposed by the English to “pumpion.” Some sources say that early colonists used pumpkin not only for a side dish and desserts, but managed to make beer of it as well. (The recipe for that seems to have been lost, but just as well as sailors already have found many fine Caribbean beers!) Interestingly, the origin of pumpkin pie came from colonists who sliced the top off the pumpkin, filled the insides with milk, spices, and honey, and baked the whole thing in ashes.
The scientific name for the West Indian pumpkin is Cucurbita moschata, but it is also called winter squash, tamalayota, ayote, auyama, zapallo, joko, and quite commonly, calabaza. West Indian pumpkins or calabaza are round or oval and come in sizes as small as a grapefruit or as large as watermelon, some weighing up to 50 pounds. On the outside, they can be a variety of colors: ivory, tan, green, red, orange, or mottled with all those colors. On the inside, though, they are all bright orange.
Because large West Indian pumpkins have an extremely tough rind, they are often sold at the market in pre-cut pieces. If you buy a whole one, you’ll need to use a heavy cleaver or else gently pound your knife blade through with a mallet. The smaller specimens are actually more flavorful. Choose a pumpkin that is heavy for its size, free of blemishes, cuts, soft spots or bruises, and with the stem still intact. If you plan to store the pumpkin, don’t lift it by its stem since it may break off and allow spoilage to set in.
If you buy an already-cut piece of pumpkin, be sure that it is fresh and moist. If you see really wet or soft spots, the piece may be spoiling. A cut piece of pumpkin, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or placed in a sealed container, will keep in your fridge for about a week. Given the size of boat refrigerators, there is no point telling you that a refrigerated whole pumpkin will keep up to three months. And for the cook who lives on a boat in the tropics, instructions to store a whole pumpkin in a “cool, dry spot” are likely to bring giggles. Well, do the best you can and instead of your whole pumpkin keeping for the promised six weeks, maybe you’ll get two or three weeks. If you do find mold, remove it and seal the spot by wiping it with vegetable oil.
In days of old, pumpkins were recommended for removing freckles and as a remedy for snake bites. Nowadays, we know that pumpkin offers healthy portions of vitamins A and C, and is a good source of beta-carotene, fiber, and potassium. Some studies say that pumpkin helps prevent hardening of the arteries that can lead to heart attacks or strokes. According to one Internet source, “A study cited by the USDA indicated that diets high in pumpkin as a fiber source tended to curb the appetite, yet provided more food for the same calorie count. The subjects in this study also absorbed less fat and calories from their food.” Unfortunately, many pumpkin recipes, especially the desserts, call for whole milk or cream, whole eggs, salt, and sugar — all those ingredients that taste so wonderful and have nothing to do with lowered fat and calorie count. If you want to make healthier dishes, most recipes are still satisfactory using no-fat evaporated or powdered milk, egg substitutes, and Splenda or another sugar substitute.
In some countries, pumpkin is eaten more often as a side dish than as a dessert. Australians, for example, add slices or cubes of pumpkin to roasting lamb, beef, chicken, or turkey, right along with carrots, potatoes, and onions. In Germany pumpkin is known as “poor man’s food.” It is made into soup or compote using vinegar, cinnamon, and sugar. The Chinese use pumpkin flour and pumpkin oil.
An easy way to cook pumpkin is to bake it after cutting into quarters, cubes or slices. Once the pumpkin is open, remove any seeds and stringy fibers. Place pieces on a baking sheet coated with non-stick spray and bake at 350°F until all pieces are tender. Time will vary depending on the size of the pieces. Alternatively, you can boil the pieces for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on size, or cook them for about five minutes in your pressure cooker. If you have a microwave, you can just put the whole pumpkin or big pieces on a microwave-safe plate, pierce the skin with a knife point in several places to release steam, and cook on high about six minutes per pound or until the flesh is soft.
Whichever way you cook the pumpkin, once it is tender, drain it well and let it cool slightly, and remove any remaining seeds and stringy fibers.
To make puree, scoop out and mash the pulp. At this point, your pumpkin is just like the canned pumpkin you knew in your other life, only much fresher and cheaper.
Don’t be too hasty to throw out the pumpkin seeds as they make a fine snack. The seeds need to be cleared of fibers, washed in warm water then dried on paper towels. Spread prepared seeds on a baking sheet and sprinkle them with salt. Bake at 350°F for about 20 to 30 minutes or until they are dry and begin to brown. Check every five minutes and stir. The seeds can also be spiced with black pepper, chili powder, and/or garlic.
West Indian pumpkins are available year round throughout Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, so you don’t have to wait for Halloween or Thanksgiving. Here, you can even make a jack o’lantern in July if the fancy strikes. Thank goodness, not all pumpkin comes in a can!
Home-made Pumpkin Pie Spice Mix
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Mix all together and store in an airtight container. Use in place of commercially prepared pumpkin pie spice mix.
Pumpkin Treat
8 ounces cream cheese
1 Cup powdered sugar
3/4 Cup pumpkin puree
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice mix
1 teaspoon vanilla
In a small bowl, beat cream cheese and powdered sugar with an electric mixer on low speed. Add pumpkin, spice mix, and vanilla. Beat at low speed until well-blended. Serve as dip with apple slices or gingersnaps.
Pumpkin Pancakes
1 Cup plain flour
1 Tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 Cup pumpkin puree
2 egg yolks, slightly beaten
1 Cup milk
2 Tablespoons canola or olive oil
2 egg whites, beaten until stiff peaks form
non-stick cooking spray
In a small bowl, combine flour, sugar, soda, salt, and cinnamon. In another bowl, whisk together pumpkin, egg yolks, milk, and oil. Add dry ingredients to pumpkin mixture in about three parts, mixing well after each addition. Fold in egg whites.
Heat a small skillet or griddle sprayed with non-stick spray over medium heat. For each pancake, pour 1/4 Cup batter into skillet and cook until bubbles form in batter and pancake bottom is golden. Turn and cook other side until golden brown. Serve with maple syrup. Serves two.
Shrimp Boat Bake
2 cantaloupe-size calabazas with stems intact
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 pounds shrimp, peeled, deveined
2 Cups coconut milk
1 small bunch fresh coriander, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
With a sharp knife, remove a “lid” from the top of each calabaza. Scoop out seeds and stringy fibers then rub olive oil on the skins. Put the “lids” back on and place calabazas in a 9”x13” baking dish sprayed with non-stick. Bake at 350°F for 20 to 30 minutes or until calabazas are just beginning to get tender. Do not overbake.
Remove calabazas from oven and open “lids”. Place half of the shrimp in each calabaza.
In a bowl, mix coconut milk, coriander, and garlic. Divide mixture in half and fill calabazas.
Replace “lids” and return baking dish to oven for another 20 to 30 minutes, or just until a fork will pierce the skin easily. Overcooking could make a huge mess! Serve each calabaza in a bowl with a green salad on the side. Impresses two!
West Indian Pumpkin with Pork
1 thick slice bacon
2 Cups fresh pumpkin, peeled and cut in one-fourth-inch slices
1 large onion, sliced
1/2 Cup water
one chicken bouillon cube, crushed
1 pound pork tenderloin, cut in 1/8” strips
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, sauté the bacon slice until crisp. Remove and set aside. Add the pumpkin slices, onions, water, and bouillon cube. Stir to mix then cover skillet, reduce heat to medium, and cook for about 15 minutes or until pumpkin is tender. Stir occasionally.
In the meantime, in a separate skillet, sauté the pork strips for about five minutes until tender. When pumpkin is tender, add pork, cumin, salt, and pepper to the skillet. Stir all together then remove skillet from heat and cover. Let sit three to five minutes to combine flavors. Serve with rice. Makes four servings.
Curried Pumpkin Soup
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon curry powder (mild or hot to taste)
1 Cup pumpkin puree
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon sugar
1 bay leaf
2 chicken bouillon cubes
2 Cups water
1 1/2 Cups evaporated milk, divided
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh chives or toasted flaked coconut (optional)
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic, and curry powder, and sauté until just softened. Stir in pumpkin, nutmeg, and sugar, bay leaf, bouillon cubes, and water. Bring to boil then reduce heat and simmer uncovered about 15 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Stir in one Cup milk and let simmer for a few minutes.
To the other half-cup of milk, add cornstarch and stir to dissolve. Stir this mixture into the saucepan and continue to simmer until thickened, stirring constantly until bubbly. Serve hot with chives or coconut sprinkled on top. Makes two to four servings.
Riced West Indian Pumpkin
5 1/4 Cups chicken broth
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 Cups Arborio rice
3/4 Cup dry white wine
2 1/2 Cups pumpkin puree
3 Tablespoons chopped fresh chives (or 1 Tablespoon dried)
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 Cup toasted almonds
1/2 Cup grated Parmesan cheese
In a saucepan over high heat, bring broth to a boil then turn heat to low just to keep broth warm. In another saucepan over medium heat, sauté onion and garlic in oil until just softened. Add rice. Cook, stirring constantly for one minute. Add wine and continue to cook and stir until wine is absorbed. Add about 1/2 Cup of the warm broth, stirring constantly. Once liquid is absorbed, add another 1/2 to 3/4 Cup of broth. Again, stir until liquid is absorbed. Continue with this procedure until about half the broth has been added to the rice mixture then add the pumpkin and stir well. Then continue as before with the remaining broth, adding 1/2 Cup or so at a time and stirring frequently until all liquid is absorbed and rice is tender and creamy. Stir in chives, salt, and pepper. Garnish with toasted almonds and Parmesan cheese. Serves four to six.
Calabaza Fudge
1 Cup milk
3 Tablespoon Karo® syrup
1/2 Cup calabaza puree
dash of salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon allspice
4 Tablespoon margarine
1 teaspoon vanilla
In large skillet, combine milk, syrup, calabaza and salt. Bring to boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. When mixture reaches a full boil. Lower heat and simmer until mixture reaches the soft ball stage. (A few drops in a cup of cold water will form a soft ball.) Remove from heat and beat in cinnamon, allspice, margarine, and vanilla. Continue to beat until fudge cools, thickens, and loses its gloss. Spoon into a buttered 8”x8” pan. Let cool completely then cut into squares. Store covered.
Slightly Modified Libby’s® Famous Pumpkin Pie
3/4 Cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 large eggs, beaten
2 Cups pumpkin puree
1 1/2 Cups evaporated milk
1 unbaked 9” deep dish pie shell
whipped cream
In a large mixing bowl, mix sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, allspice and nutmeg. With electric mixer on low speed, beat in eggs and then pumpkin. With mixer still on low speed, slowly add evaporated milk. When blended, pour into the pie shell. Bake in a hot preheated oven for 15 minutes then lower temperature to 350°F. Bake 40 to 50 minutes until a knife inserted in the center of the pie comes out clean. Cool on a rack for two hours. Serve warm with a dollop of whipped cream. Refrigerate any leftovers. Makes eight servings.
Elaine Wilson’s Pumpkin Pecan Pie
1 egg
1 Cup pumpkin puree
1/3 Cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1 unbaked pie crust
2 eggs, slightly beaten
2/3 Cup Karo® syrup
2/3 Cup sugar
1 Tablespoon margarine, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 Cup pecan pieces
whipped cream (optional)
In a small bowl, combine one egg, pumpkin, sugar, cinnamon, ginger and cloves. Spread evenly in bottom of pie crust.
In another small bowl, combine two eggs, syrup, sugar, margarine, and vanilla. Stir until blended, then stir in pecans. Spoon this mixture into piecrust over the pumpkin mixture.
Bake for 50 to 60 minutes at 350°F, or until a knife inserted in center comes out clean. Cool on rack. Serve warm or chilled with whipped cream. Refrigerate any leftovers. Makes eight servings.
Note: This recipe was given to me by Elaine Wilson of the S/V Manaña — it’s like getting two wonderful pies in one!
