by Arlene Walrond
As a true Trini I feel that I must defend our callaloo. I’m referring to an article that appeared in the May issue of the Compass. I realize the author said she adapted that recipe from a Trinidadian high school’s cookbook, but that is not “Trinidad Callaloo”! The ingredients are basically the same, with some important variations, and the method of cooking also makes a difference. I would like to share my family’s recipe.
12 dasheen leaves (or whatever name you may know it by) with about six inches
of stem attached
1 large sweet pepper, chopped
1 green hot pepper
2 Cups coconut milk
2 Cups water
1/2 pound of pumpkin, peeled and diced
8 ochroes (okra), sliced
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 chive or a few leaves of celery, chopped finely
1 Tablespoon of butter or cooking margarine
Salt to taste (omit if using salted meat)
Crabs and salted pork or beef (optional)
It’s not really necessary to have the stems attached to the leaves but it is more convenient to do so. Peel the stem all the way down the veins on the back of the leaves, then chop leaves finely. Or, if the leaves are young and tender, they can be rolled and tied in a knot (the traditional way actually); chop them and stems as well. Next, place all the solid ingredients except the hot pepper in a deep cooking pot then pour all liquid in and place on stove. Put the hot pepper in the centre, on top of everything, and do not allow it to be submerged. Cook for half an hour on medium heat. Remove pot from heat, take out pepper and discard. If you forget to remove the pepper or cause it to rupture while in the pot then “crapaud smoke yuh pipe” as we say in Trinidad.
Next you swizzle the callaloo for about five minutes then return pot to heat and simmer for a half hour more or until required consistency is attained, repeating the swizzling process at intervals. If you don’t have a swizzle stick then whisk vigorously with an egg beater. You are aiming for a smooth, mushy texture — not too runny nor too dry, where all of the chopped ingredients are nicely blended together to the point where the individual items cannot be easily identified. While cooking add water if needed, a little at a time.
Bear in mind this method of making callaloo has been passed from generation to generation for more than a hundred years, back in the days before electric blenders and fancy beaters. Originally the swizzle stick (some called it le-le stick) was a small branch, usually from the sapodilla tree, with a cluster of twigs sprouting from one end (clipped short) forming natural prongs. The bark was removed and there you had it. The modern ones are made of wood, some with rolled wire at one end. The persons I’ve shared this recipe with in the past are more familiar with the swizzle stick that is used to stir drinks with. Maybe you have a swizzle stick but call it by a different name. Here’s how it’s done. Place handle between closed palms and roll back and forth swiftly. If the leaves are old and tough, as they sometimes are, then mid-way through cooking remove meat or crab, if any, and put callaloo in blender (you might want to let it cool for a bit first) for a second or two then return to pot and continue cooking. Too much time in the blender will change the texture drastically.
Another thing I want to touch on are the root and leaves pictured in the article. In Trinidad that root is called tannia, the leaves of which we have always believed to be inedible. What we know of as dasheen in Trinidad looks a lot different, and so do the leaves. To identify the root when cooked, if it ain’t blue it ain’t true!
Moving on. In February’s Compass I read an article on cassava where the writer said that the only problem with cassava is that it spoils relatively quickly. Since reading that I’ve been wondering how to share this information and I’m glad of this opportunity to do so now. On a visit home some time ago a market vendor shared this secret with me. I say secret because if she told this to all of her customers it would be bad for business. I would like to pass it on to Compass readers who might be interested. To preserve cassava over time, you need to buy freshly dug ones to begin with. Cut off both ends and if it is milky white with no discoloration then it’s good. Peel, rinse lightly and seal in plastic bag and place in freezer. Once a frozen state is maintained it can last for months. When ready to use, don’t thaw — just drop into a pot of boiling water. I’ve tried it and it really works.
