Story by Bonnie Harrison and Simon Scott, photos courtesy Cruising Guide publications
Nothing has influenced the history of the Virgin Islands more profoundly than their geography and physical makeup. Situated at the high point of the curving archipelago that swings from Trinidad to Florida, they survey strategically all of the Americas, and with their steady northeast trade winds and numerous sheltered coves and harbors, continue to attract sailors from around the globe.
The British Virgin Islands, ideally situated in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea, comprise four larger islands and 32 smaller islets and cays, some uninhabited. Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada are the big four with Peter, Cooper, Norman and Marina Cay being some of the more well-known smaller islets and cays.
With the exception of Anegada, a flat coral island, between 10 and 15 feet above sea level and surrounded by dangerous reefs, the rest of this archipelago was created by magma rising to the surface and the subsequent volcanic eruptions that formed low mountains, foothills and lagoons. The exception is Sage Mountain, the highest point in the BVI, rising to 1,709 feet above sea level and home to the Sage Mountain National Park.
The BVI is a British Overseas Territory. The government is a parliamentary democracy elected and regulated by the Constitution of the British Virgin Islands. The BVI islanders, as they are called, are predominantly of African descent and stem from the plantation history of slavery in the BVI. To date, the demographic mix is about 75 percent black. The balance of the population is a mix consisting of a small community of Europeans, Americans and down-islanders. The official language spoken is English. There are variations such as English based Creole. This is a rapid and idiomatic mix of English with an island rhythm.
The currency used in the British Virgin Islands is the US dollar. Major credit cards are accepted in most restaurants and shops. However, on smaller islands, you may run in to places that are cash only.
The BVI is accessible by air, or by ferry via the USVI. There are no direct flights from Europe or Canada but American Airlines operates a daily direct flight from Miami. If you are arriving by sea, there are ports of entry located in Road Town, Jost Van Dyke and St. Thomas Bay in Virgin Gorda. Customs & Immigration will require passports and boat registration. Daily ferry services connect all the major islands.
The airport at Beef Island was opened in 1968. The following year marked the opening of the first charter boat company, The Moorings, which has now grown to a global brand with bases throughout the world. Geographically, the cruising area offers some protection from the blustery trade winds while also providing numerous islands and anchorages for exploration, without the longer passages associated with the lower Caribbean.
As chartering became increasingly popular, the various islands began to open beach bars to cater to their new tourist demographic. Jost Van Dyke, three square miles, opened its first beach bar in 1968. We all know that as Foxy’s. The Soggy Dollar opened in 1972, and these two beach bars became iconic places for sailors to drink, eat and party. But the tradition of beach bars goes back to 1960 when a small hotel was built on Marina Cay. It was later leased by Pussers, who opened a restaurant and a gift shop there. Marina Cay, badly damaged by hurricane Irma, has since been revitalized and is open, barefoot vibe and all.
In 1969, the first real “sailors haunt” was built: the Bitter End, at North Sound, Virgin Gorda. Destroyed by Irma, but built back to the highest standards, it is still a don’t miss stop. Saba Rock, a hotel and restaurant that welcomes sailors with a dinghy dock alongside their restaurant, has also been revitalized. These establishments, along with the Oil Nut Bar Marina in Deep Bay, offer an exciting array of entertainment and activity for the cruiser and charterer alike.
1989 introduced a new way to dine, drink and party hard. This is the year that brought the Willy T, a large converted tanker, to the Bight at Norman Island. Stories abound about many wild nights of partying with the usual suspects jumping into the water below, with and without bathing attire!
Tortola and Virgin Gorda are the two municipal hubs of the BVI. Government house, the college, hotels, shops and marinas, as well as a large port where cruise ships dock make Tortola the main island of the group. Virgin Gorda became famous for the Baths, which are now national parks. For years, tourists have flocked to explore its giant boulders and hidden sea pools. Back when these islands were formed, enormous granite boulders (batholiths) were pushed to the surface by volcanic action. They are always an attraction for exploration, with steps and handrails to lead you through this labyrinth of rocks and pools. The latter paths were added around 1990.
Heavily influenced by the growth of the charter trade, the ecology of the BVI has suffered the effects of indiscriminate anchoring on coral beds over time, and permanent moorings have been installed in many major anchorages and national parks. Moorings can cost between $40-$60 a night, and for the cruising sailor on a budget finding a spot to anchor in the more populated anchorages can be a challenge.
With sailing and the charter industry well established as the economic backbone of BVI tourism, sailors continue to make use of one of the finest sailing areas in the world. The quiet coves where Drake, Columbus and Blackbeard used to anchor are once more havens for fleets of sailing vessels and the modern adventurers who come to explore its waters.
Bonnie Harrison is the senior editor of Cruising Guide Publications. For more detailed information on the Virgin Islands and the sailing areas of the Caribbean, from the Virgin Islands south to Grenada, pick up a copy of the latest 2025 editions of the Cruising Guide Publications series or download the CruisingGuide app on Apple and Google. www.cruisingguides.com
British Virgin Islands Entry and Exit Procedures
Ports of Entry
There are four ports of entry for the BVI: two on Tortola, one on Jost van Dyke, and one on Virgin Gorda. West End/Soper’s Hole on Tortola is a popular entry/exit port for cruisers due to its proximity to the USVI. Spanish Town is the main harbor on Virgin Gorda and is the westernmost entry/exit port. See BVI Main Ports for more details on the ports of entry.
Advance Paperwork
The BVI uses the SailClear system. Boats should pre-register and submit their arrival notification. For many countries, a visa is not required. Check the government website for more details.
Entry Process
On arrival, the captain should immediately proceed to the nearest Customs and Immigration offices with the SailClear ID number, crew passports and boat paperwork. Reserved dress is recommended (no bathing suits/beachwear). BVI immigration authorities typically issue a one-month entry stamp on arrival.
Exit Process
SailClear must be used for departure. Only the captain need go to Customs and Immigration to complete departure formalities (provide SailClear ID number).
Rates
Entry and exit costs for a double-handed yacht are approximately USD $100. See a breakdown of fees on Noonsite.
This information is provided by Noonsite.com, specialists in worldwide formalities for yachts, and was accurate at the time of going to press. Check Noonsite’s BVI Formalities for more details and updates.
