by Mary Heckrotte
Meander about any Caribbean market and you’ll surely find your roots. In fact, you’ll see a mind-boggling assortment of roots and tubers — some round, some long, some fuzzy, some rough — that are all staples in the island diet. You couldn’t find vegetables more suited for a centuries-old Caribbean tradition. Hiding under the ground, these vegetables will still be here after droughts and even hurricanes have passed.
The main ones are yams, yucca (a.k.a. cassava) and taro. Collectively, they’re just called “roots” or “ground provisions”, and if you try to get any more specific than that, you’re sure to get confused. I’ve been asking and reading about these roots and tubers for years, and the more I learn, the more befuddled I get. So I’ve decided that I’m just going to tell you what I think might be true about one kind of root, the one most often called taro. (We’ve already done an article on yucca and we’ll do one on yams soon.)
Take a look at this picture of taro. Now if you go to a market and pick up an object that looks exactly like this, it might not be called taro at all. Talk to the vendor and she could tell you you’re holding a cocoyam, dasheen, malanga, yautia, yam or eddoe. And that’s only if your vendor is speaking mostly English. All bets are off as to what other names she might use in Dutch, French or Spanish — and it’s sure to be something different when you change countries or even islands. If we use the Latin name, Colocasi escuentla (which your vendor isn’t apt to know), we’ve narrowed it down to only two hundred or so varieties — but we won’t let that little detail bother us. (Some varieties of taro are grown strictly as ornamentals, however, and these are NOT edible. We just have to trust that our market vendors do not go around digging up their neighbor’s landscaping.) For agreement’s sake, let’s all call this root “taro” and go from there. Just remember that if you find a recipe that calls for one of those other names, you can use it just the same.
The identifying characteristic of the root you’re looking for is pinkish-white flesh with a ring of color at its base. The root ranges from finger-banana-size to big-cucumber-size. It is somewhat pear-shaped and will have a hairy brown skin with horizontal rings. It will have sort of a top-knot at one end and shaggy rootlets at the other end — unless it has been trimmed. When you cut open a taro root, you’ll find the inside smooth, with a texture something like a jicama or water chestnut. It might be white, slightly grayish, or even speckled, depending on the variety. You’ll want to choose roots that are rock-hard, heavy for their size, and without soft or moldy spots or cracks. Prick the skin with your fingernail and test the flesh for freshness; it should be juicy and crisp. Back at the boat, store your taro in a cool (yeah, right!), well-ventilated place and use them within a few days.
Before it is dug from the ground and brought to market, taro root sports huge, heart-shaped green leaves, frequently called elephant ears because that’s about the size and shape of them. There is likely to be a stack of them where you’re buying the taro roots and the market vendor might call them dasheen. When eaten raw, these leaves will make your mouth burn and itch and your throat feel like it has permanently closed for business. Taro, especially the leaves, contains an insoluble crystal called calcium oxalate. Fortunately, cooking leaches out these crystals. The cooked leaves taste a lot like spinach, mustard or turnip greens. They are the base for callaloo, the traditional Caribbean soup famous especially in Trinidad. Indeed, some market vendors will just call the leaves callaloo.
The whole taro plant is one of the most important in all the tropics and has been cultivated for so long that its origination is unknown. One of the most traditional foods of the South Pacific is poi — one of those ethnic dishes that seems to require an acquired taste to appreciate. Poi is made from cooked, pounded then fermented taro. And in China, there are written records of this dish from as early as the Han Dynasty. In fact, the name dasheen is thought to have come from “de Chine.” Additionally, across Africa and all over the Caribbean Basin and surrounding Central and South American countries, taro is an everyday food. Now Europeans and North Americans are catching on, too.
To prepare the root for cooking, wash it, brush it, and then peel it. Raw taro is quite harsh on your hands so it is best to wear gloves, or oil your hands first. (If your hands come in contact enough to cause skin irritation, rinse them several times in a solution of baking soda or salt dissolved in cold water. Afterwards, apply an anti-itch cream.) Cut the roots into the desired size or prick them with a fork if cooking whole. Put the root in a pot with plenty of water and boil until the center is soft — about 40 to 90 minutes, depending on the size. To help rid the root of the calcium oxalate and reduce the chance of irritation to the mouth, change the water several times. When cooked, rinse the roots under cold running water until they are just cool enough to handle. If you boiled the roots with the peels on, you can now easily remove them.
Both taro root and taro leaves are a rich source of vitamins and minerals and the root is an especially good source of fiber. Even when cooked, both contain oxalic acid which should be avoided altogether by people who have kidney problems, gout, or rheumatoid arthritis.
The taro root is quite starchy and has an earthy, chestnut-like flavor. It is used mostly like a potato and is sometimes called the “potato of the tropics”. You can substitute it for potatoes in most recipes, but always use it hot, because the texture turns rather rubbery when it is cold. Taro serves as a natural thickener in soups and stews, becoming custard-like as it cooks. It can be roasted, pureed, fried, or dried and ground into flour, but it definitely must be cooked. Like potatoes, taro is especially nice with a rich cream sauce.
Two kinds of taro leaves make their way to market, some with green stems, the most common, and some with purple stems, usually a little more expensive. The leaves are one and a half to two feet long, though the young, tenderest ones will be smaller. You’ll need a pound of leaves to make a Cup full when cooked. Store the leaves in a perforated bag in your refrigerator until you are ready to use them; they’ll keep a few days. Strip off the stems and pinch off the leaf tips and discard. Wash the leaves by submerging them completely in water to remove any grit. Chop the leaves into bite-size pieces, or as your recipe states, and cook them for at least 45 minutes to avoid the irritation to your mouth caused by the calcium oxalate. Some people may still note a bit of irritation to the mouth. If so, rinse your mouth several times with a mixture of cold water, baking soda and salt.
You can substitute cooked taro leaves for many recipes calling for cooked spinach — and vice versa, of course. You can also use taro leaves as a substitute for banana leaves to wrap fish for baking — it imparts a delicious flavor.
The good news about both taro root and taro leaves is their versatility. Using the roots as a substitute for potatoes and the leaves instead of spinach, you’ll find many recipes to try. And if the market lady is confused when you ask for taro root, she most likely knows it by another name. If you can’t find taro, just use one of the other roots, such as yams or cassava. See? Life is easy when you get back to your roots.
Taro Burgers
1 pound taro root, peeled, boiled, puréed and kept hot
1 Tablespoon butter
1/2 Cup milk (approximately)
1 onion, minced
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, minced
3 Tablespoons parsley, minced
1 egg, beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 Cup flour
1/2 Cup fine dry bread crumbs
2 Tablespoons olive oil
In a medium mixing bowl, mix hot taro purée with butter and milk to the consistency of mashed potatoes. Add onion, jalapeño, parsley, egg, salt and pepper, and flour. Stir well, then shape into burger-size patties. Put olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and brown the patties on each side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot as a side dish or make a sandwich with hamburger “fixings.” Makes 4 servings.
Caribbean Taro Patties
1 pound taro roots
2 Tablespoons mint leaves, minced
1 Tablespoon cumin
1 egg, beaten
1 firm ripe mango, chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
In a large pot, boil the taro roots in their skin for about 40 minutes or until they are fork tender. Drain and cool just enough to squeeze the peels off and grate the flesh. Mix with mint leaves, cumin, egg, and mango. Make into little cakes. Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and fry patties until browned on each side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.
Baked Taro Leaf Casserole
2 to 3 Tablespoons butter or olive oil
2 green onions, sliced thinly
2 Tablespoons minced parsley
1 pound taro leaves, washed, drained, stemmed, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon prepared mustard
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 Cup grated cheddar or gruyère cheese
Heat butter or olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté green onion and parsley until transparent. Add prepared taro leaves, salt and pepper. Stir 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in prepared mustard and then put this mixture in a greased casserole dish. Beat together the eggs and cheese and pour over the leaves. Bake at 350°F for about 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Makes 4 servings.
Taro Chips (with variations)
Prick whole taro roots with a fork and blanch in salted, boiling water for just a few minutes. Drain. Chill for a few hours. Peel then slice very thinly on a mandolin. Alternatively, you can peel and slice the raw taro root and simply cook the chips longer. Fry the chips in deep hot oil over medium-high heat until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and add salt, seasoned salt, and/or chili powder. For a sweet treat, sprinkle the chips with a little cinnamon-sugar. Taro root makes a harder and nuttier “potato chip.”
Chicken with Taro Leaves
1 1/2 pounds taro leaves, washed, stems removed, chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 pounds skinned chicken pieces (thighs, legs, breasts)
2 onions, chopped
3 cloves of garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons minced fresh ginger root
2 chicken bouillon cubes
1 1/2 Cups water
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 Cup cold water
1 Cup unsweetened coconut cream (not Coco Lopez!)
Boil taro leaves in a large, heavy pot of salted water for 30 to 40 minutes. Drain in a colander and set aside. Heat olive oil in same pot over medium high heat. Brown chicken pieces on all sides, then remove them to a plate and set aside. In the same pot, sauté onion, garlic, and ginger in the hot oil. Return the chicken to the pot and add bouillon cubes, water and pepper. Reduce heat to low. Cover pot and simmer about 20 minutes or until chicken is tender. Add prepared taro leaves and simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Mix cornstarch into 1/4 Cup cold water. Stir into pot until slightly thickened. Stir in coconut cream and heat through. Serve with rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Trinidad Callaloo
(Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Jubilee Cookbook)
12 taro leaves, washed, stemmed, chopped
1/4 pound ham bone
1/4 pound salt pork, soaked then drained
2 Cups coconut milk
1 green pepper, chopped
2 live blue crabs
8 okras, sliced in rounds
2 sprigs thyme
1 onion, chopped
4 chives, chopped
1 Cup boiling water
1 Tablespoon butter
Put all the ingredients except the butter into a large saucepot. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat to simmer until all ingredients are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in the butter and serve hot with rice. Makes 4 servings.
Cream of Taro Root Soup
4 Cups peeled taro root cut into 1-inch cubes
4 stalks celery, sliced
3 medium onions, chopped
3 medium carrots, diced
4 chicken bouillon cubes
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 Cups water
1 (13.5 ounces) can evaporated milk
In a large soup pot, cook taro root in boiling water for 30 minutes, changing water at least once. Drain and return to pot. Add celery, onions, carrots, bouillon cubes, pepper, and 3 Cups water. Bring to boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until all vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Add milk and heat through but do not boil. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.
Taro Loaf
(Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Jubilee Cookbook)
3 Tablespoons flour
3 Tablespoons butter
1 Cup milk
1 1/2 Cup cheese, grated
1 pound ground beef
1 onion, chopped
1 blade chives, chopped
2 Tablespoons catsup
1 pound taro leaves, stemmed, chopped, cooked until tender
2 Tablespoons butter
In a small saucepan over medium heat, make a cheese sauce by melting butter then stirring in flour. Stir in milk and continue to stir until mixture thickens. Stir in cheese, remove from heat, and set aside while cheese melts.
In a skillet, sauté ground beef with onions and chives until beef is browned. Stir in catsup. Set aside. Stir prepared taro leaves into cheese sauce. Spray bottom and sides of a casserole dish with non-stick spray. Put in a layer of cheese mixture then a layer of meat. Continue layers, ending with cheese. Dot top of casserole with butter and bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Slice. Makes 4 servings.
Taro Root with Cream Sauce
(Recipe adapted from Naparima Girls’ High School Diamond Jubilee Cookbook)
1 pound taro root
4 Tablespoons butter, divided
2 Tablespoons flour
1 Cup milk
1 onion, minced
few drops of lime juice
dash of Angostura Bitters
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Prick unpeeled taro roots with a fork and boil in a large saucepan with water to cover until fork tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water until just cool enough to handle. Squeeze out the pulp. Put in a serving dish and mash with a fork.
In the meantime, in a small saucepan make a thin white sauce by melting 2 Tablespoons butter, stirring in flour, then adding milk. Stir sauce until thickened, then set aside. In a small skillet over medium heat, melt 2 Tablespoons butter and sauté onion until transparent. Add lime juice, salt and pepper and cook for 2 minutes. Add bitters and white sauce. Pour over mashed taro. Makes 4 servings.
Taro and Coconut Cake
2 Cups hot taro purée
1/4 Cup melted butter
2 eggs, beaten
1 Cup grated coconut
1/2 Cup sugar
1 Cup milk
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Whipped topping
Mix hot taro purée and butter. Stir in eggs, coconut, and sugar. Mix well. Add nutmeg, cinnamon, and vanilla. Beat with an electric mixer on high for 1 minute. Pour into a buttered 8-inch cake pan and bake in preheated oven at 350°F for 45 to 60 minutes or until cake is firm in the middle. Cool in pan on a rack. Serve with whipped topping. Makes 9 servings.
