By Lexi Fisher and Chris Doyle, photos by Chris Doyle
St. Barthelemy, affectionately known as St. Barts (or St. Barths), is most often known as a destination for the uber-rich looking for a Caribbean escape. Multimillion-dollar megayachts line the harbor facing designer storefronts and fine-dining restaurants; contemporary villas dot the hillsides. But behind the opulence, St. Barts is much like many of the other Leeward Islands, with soft white sand beaches, some nice hikes, good snorkeling, and affordable local restaurants.
For the sailor, St. Barts has the allure of a small island whose economy and well-being have always been intricately bound up with its picturesque port. The island itself had little to recommend it for settlement in the early days, as the rainfall is insufficient to support agriculture. However, St. Barts is strategically placed in the middle of the Lesser Antilles. Its fine small harbor and several sheltered bays made it important enough to be fought over by the British, French, and Spanish. It prospered under the French in the late 1600s when it was used as a base by pirates who came here to spend their quickly-gained fortunes.
The most famous of these was Captain Montbars, a Frenchman who was so horrified by what the Spanish had done to the native populations that he decided to avenge them, prospering while he did good. He took on an indigenous crew who, no doubt, felt somewhat bitter, and did so well he became known with some terror as “Montbars the Exterminator.” He finally disappeared in a hurricane and it is thought that his treasure is still buried on the island, though it is more likely that it was spent on the island.
In 1784 the French gave St. Barts to the Swedes in exchange for free port rights in Gothenburg. The Swedes made it a free port, which it remains today. It had a second period of prosperity as a trading center during the American war of independence, after the sack of nearby St. Eustatius by the British admiral George Rodney, which destroyed the infrastructure of St. Eustatius and ended its dominance as a favored trading port. Strategic location and a favorable business environment meant that American rebels came here for supplies.
During the hundred years following 1852, its fortunes fell, owing to changing trade patterns and several hurricanes. The Swedes sold St. Barts back to France in 1878 and today it is a commune of France, though an overseas one, which means it is free from many European laws.
Over the last 40 years, this free port status has resulted in an astonishing economic recovery. At first, it was mainly inter-island trade. Small motorless sailing sloops would arrive here from down island and load themselves to the gunwales with alcohol and cigarettes to be smuggled back home. Although the customs officers in their home ports were properly taken care of, the return journey was nonetheless a long and hazardous sail to windward. The smugglers’ biggest problem was to evade the customs men in St. Kitts and Nevis who would happily confiscate their cargo, no matter its destination. To keep out of their way, many would sneak by night through The Narrows, the reef-filled passage between St. Kitts and Nevis.
The upshot is that today St. Barts is in an unprecedented renaissance. With its sharply contoured rocky hills, a picturesque port, and gorgeous beaches, it has become a world-famous chic destination and the favored hot spot for the good looking, well-to-do “in” crowd, seasoned with a sprinkling of acting, singing, dancing, and sports stars, plus a Russian oligarch or two: the Riviera of the Caribbean. It has happily managed to keep some integrity of architectural style and is still quite charming.
It hosts excellent cultural events, including a music festival (classical, jazz, and sometimes ballet) in January, and many art shows, as well as carnival (visitors are welcome to join in). The day after carnival there is a mock funeral when effigies representing evil are paraded and burned.
The Caribbean Film Festival in April is excellent, and November has Swedish Week (music and dance) and Gourmet Week with visiting chefs. November 1 is All Saints, when everyone decorates the graves. Sociability reaches a crescendo around the New Year’s holiday when a hundred or more superyachts arrive for festivities that include a spectacular fireworks display.
St. Barts is surrounded by a host of small islands and rocks — some large and obvious, and others just awash. You can pick your own deepwater channels between these rocks, but study the charts well and keep a good lookout. Do not try to go between groups of islands that lie together, such as Groupers and Petite Groupers, or Boulanger and Ile Pelé. The southeast coast can be very rough, so it makes sense to stay outside Red Rocks and Ile Coco.
Marine protected areas are marked by yellow buoys. These are large and a collision with one would probably ruin your day. Being yellow, they are easy to see by day; at night they have flashing yellow lights. However, the lights have been known to go out, and the buoys move.
When you’re full of French wine and fine dining, Saba, Statia, St. Kitts & Nevis, and St. Martin are all a short, pleasant sail away.
Doyle Guides contain the Eastern Caribbean’s most comprehensive and reliable sailing information, available in hard copy and online through a free mobile app, website, and Facebook group. (www.doyleguides.com).
Saint Barthélemy (St. Barts) Entry and Exit Procedures from Noonsite
Ports of Entry:
The sole port of entry is Gustavia on the west coast.
Advance Paperwork:
There are two online clearance forms to complete, up to 24 hours prior to arrival: the new French Antilles Customs clearance form and a form specific to the port of Gustavia. For visitors from many countries, a visa is not required.
Entry Process:
Call the Port Authority on VHF Ch. 12 two hours prior to arrival. Check-in formalities are completed at the port captain’s office. You will need your clearance number, password for the Gustavia-specific form and your departure zarpe from your last port of call.
Exit Process:
Same as the entry process. For very short (1-2 day) stays, clearing in and out at the same time is usually possible.
Rates:
There is a small administrative charge for use of the clearance computer in the port captain’s office, if unable to complete the forms in advance (3 – 5 Euro). There are anchoring fees in St Barts.
Check Noonsite for more detailed information and updates. This information is provided by Noonsite.com, specialists in worldwide formalities for yachts, and was accurate at press time.
