By Mary Heckrotte
On Guadeloupe in 1493, the Carib Indians were just about ready to party. The stew pot was full of meat and the veggies and fruits were stacked at the ready. Plans were for one fine fiesta. And then, “Oh drat! Here comes company. It’s that Chris Columbus guy and his crew.”
The Caribs must not have liked the looks of those guys since they just disappeared, and vanished like tropical air into the jungle. Now Chris and his Vitamin-C-deprived crew peeked into the pot and no doubt turned up their noses at the unfamiliar stew. But they didn’t mind in the least chowing down on the fruits and veggies. In the heap were what the Caribs called ananas, meaning ‘excellent fruit’, which they used to sweeten the stew bones.
One of the more adventuresome sailors whipped out his cutlass, whacked one of the prickly things open, took a big mouthful, and grinned all over himself as the sweetness ran down his scraggly beard. That’s probably the fellow who said, “Hmm, this thing has an outside like a pinecone and an inside like an apple. Hey, guys, let’s call it a pineapple!” But, as always, Columbus got the credit.
It was Columbus’ ships that took a few pineapples back to Spain, where they became the latest royal sensation. From there, word got out and eventually the fastest ships carried the prized fruit to the few folks wealthy enough to afford the shipping charges. In Europe and later in North America, pineapples became a featured table decoration as well as the ultimate taste treat for guests in the very fanciest homes and restaurants. So in demand were the few pineapples that survived the trip from the Caribbean that some were actually rented for decorative purposes before being sold for consumption. What an honor to be a guest where the hostess went to such lengths to provide this ‘most excellent fruit’!
Thus the pineapple came to symbolize good cheer and gracious hospitality. For those who couldn’t quite afford the authentic luxury, the pineapple motif came into play. Still wanting to demonstrate hospitality, many less affluent women stitched or painted pineapples on their tablecloths and rugs, made pineapple-shaped cakes, and convinced their husbands to carve pineapples on the gatepost and sideboards. Some enterprising handymen cast copper or brass pineapples for weathervanes and one company produced pineapple-shaped hot plates. There were pineapple-decorated dishes and molded candies and candles. Had they only taken the hint from Chris and his gang, they could have cruised right on down to the Caribbean and had all the pineapples they wanted.
But would they, like me, have been surprised to see those luscious fruits, not hanging from tree limbs, but perched upright in the middle of a prickly bromeliad looking more like it belongs in a New Mexico desert than on a tropical isle? And wouldn’t they, like me, have been pleased as punch to discover whole stacks of golden-ripe pineapples at the markets — oh, my! The aroma sweetens the very air.
Actually, one pineapple is not a single fruit but many fruits, called a sorosis. All the little ‘fruitlets’ are fused together around the stem, the part we call the core. Interestingly, the individual fruits are arranged in two Fibonacci-sequence* interlocking spirals: eight spirals go in one direction and 13 in another.
The pineapple is one of very few edible bromeliads. Each plant produces two crops in its lifetime. Most pineapples weigh between four and nine pounds but some grow to 20 pounds.
Good news is that pineapples are available year-round. In an effort to choose a pineapple that will be just right to serve several days later, I’ve often asked at the market, “Which pineapple will be good for, say, Monday?” Doesn’t work! Pineapples are picked when they are at their ripest and they will not ripen further. A greenish pineapple may turn more golden, but the amount of sugar inside does not increase. Once picked, pineapples are good for a week or so and then the sugars inside begin to ferment and the fruit to rot.
Another myth debunked: pulling a few leaves from the top doesn’t have much to say about whether the pineapple is ripe. So, to find the best pineapple, choose one that is symmetrical, fat, and heavy for its size, with fresh green leaves.
Choose a big pineapple if you can as you will get a greater proportion of edible flesh. When you press the bottom, the flesh should yield just slightly. The eyes should be shiny and flat, never watery.
Avoid pineapples that are wrinkled, have dark spots or mold, or the leaves are shriveled or yellowing. The very best key to ripeness is a wonderful, unfermented, pineapple-y aroma.
The pineapple is sometimes called the ‘king of fruits’ because of the way the leaves give it a nice crown. Since the leaves are pointed and sharp, native peoples in the islands used to plant barriers of pineapple around their villages to keep out unwanted guests.
Unless you are using the pineapple for decoration, it pays to twist the leaves off and dispose of them at the market. Not only will you not have to deal with the prickly-pointy ends, but you won’t risk carting a cockroach home with you.
Fresh pineapple is actually rather fragile, though it doesn’t look it, so handle it gently. Though the sweetness will not increase over time, some chefs recommend storing the fruit upside down so that the sugars are more evenly distributed.
At room temperature, a fresh pineapple will keep well for two days. Or you can keep it uncut for three to five days in the refrigerator in a perforated plastic bag.
To prepare the pineapple, lay it on a cutting board and use a large knife to slice off the base and the top. Some folks prefer a serrated knife. Now stand the pineapple on a platter so that you can preserve all the juice as you work.
Slice off the rind, following the curves. There are three methods to accomplish this. The easiest, though a bit wasteful, is to slice deep enough to remove the eyes as you go. The other methods, while more frugal, are also more time-consuming. You can slice just barely deep enough to remove the rind, leaving the eyes. Then, using the tip of a vegetable peeler you can gouge out the eyes one by one. Or, using a smaller paring knife and following the spirals, cut long triangular grooves deep enough to remove the eyes.
Now you are ready to cut rings, wedges, chunks, or slices. Remove and discard the fibrous middle core. One medium pineapple will yield about three cups of chunks. Use prepared pineapple right away or store covered in juice in an airtight container in the refrigerator and use within five days. To improve flavor, let prepared pineapple return to room temperature before using.
Fresh pineapple, peeled and cut into chunks, can also be frozen. In fact, frozen pineapple chunks make a wonderful treat, almost like ice cream: just puree them in a blender or food processor.
If you want pineapple halves to serve as decorative ‘boats’ for salads or other dishes, cut the pineapple in half vertically. Then use a sharp knife to carve out chunks until you have a shell about three-quarters of an inch thick left. Pineapple quarters, also cut vertically, are a bit easier as you can slice the inside horizontally then make one long curved cut to remove the slices.
Canned pineapple is, of course, a fine and convenient option when you are off in some secluded anchorage. The fruit is canned when it is at its best. Except when you will be serving fresh pineapple raw, canned pineapple will work nearly as well in your recipes.
Our friend Monty Barrett, from S/V Akka, once knocked on our hotel room in Guatemala City. As we opened the door, we were astounded to see Monty, who was up and ready for his early morning flight to the US, with an upper lip at least an inch in thickness! “I don’t think my grandbabies are gonna want to hug me,” he mumbled. Even though Monty was certainly pitiful, we couldn’t help but roll on the floor laughing. On the day before, while traveling from the Rio Dulce to the City, we had stopped for fresh, luscious pineapple at a roadside stand. Monty had over-indulged, and over-reacted.
Pineapple contains large amounts of natural acids and enzymes. For this reason, large amounts of pineapple should not be consumed but, in moderate amounts, these acids and enzymes are a natural diuretic, good for digestion, and can even help clear up bronchial congestion. The resin in pineapple can cause a skin rash in some people. In fact, workers who handle a lot of pineapples (like those women at the smoothies stand) may have to wear gloves.
It is because of the bromelain enzyme that pineapple juice is a great marinade; it can tenderize some really tough cuts of meat. (Probably why those Caribs had it ready for their stew pot!) Those enzymes in fresh pineapple will also keep gelatin from jelling (canned pineapple is okay.) The acids in the juice will also keep other fruits, such as apples, and bananas, from turning dark.
Fresh pineapple is most often eaten just as it is or in salads, drinks, or desserts. Pineapple can be cooked into desserts as well as into sauces and salsas. You’ll find that pineapple is a fine accompaniment for chicken, ham, fish or other seafood, and pork dishes. You can add chunks of pineapple to your skewers when grilling or broiling kebobs or simply toss a few slices of pineapple on the grill and serve them as a side dish.
Pineapple chunks are a tasty refreshing treat added to pasta, green, or meat salads and to your stir-fries. You can dip slices in a pancake-like batter and fry them, sprinkle them while hot with a little cinnamon and sugar and voila! There’s dessert!
Another impressive but easy dessert is to simply poach pineapple slices or chunks in maple syrup and serve with vanilla yogurt.
And the price of all this ‘most excellent fruit’? Oh, it’s cheap, indeed. In New York City, you would probably pay US$5 or more for a pineapple. In the Western Caribbean you many not pay much more than a dollar — and guess which one is freshest and sweetest? Yes, here in the Caribbean we can all be royalty, dining on pineapple as often as we want. Makes you wonder why everyone isn’t out cruising? (But aren’t we glad they aren’t!)
Pineapple Chutney
1 large pineapple, peeled, cored, chopped, drained
2 Cups diced onions
1 1/2 Cups brown sugar, packed
1 Cup raisins
1 Cup vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons grated orange peel
1 teaspoon grated lemon or lime peel
2 Scotch Bonnet or other hot peppers, seeded, chopped (optional)
Put all ingredients into a saucepan over medium heat. When mixture comes to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for one and a half hours until it has thickened. Excellent with grilled salmon, pork, or chicken or as an appetizer with cream cheese and crackers. Store leftovers in sealed jar in refrigerator.
Cabbage and Pineapple Salad
1 pound green cabbage, shredded
1 Cup sliced celery
1/2 Cup green pepper, cut in thin strips
1/2 Cup tomatoes, cut in thin wedges
1 Cup fresh pineapple, diced one-half inch
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pinch each basil, tarragon, and parsley
1 Cup plain yogurt
2 Tablespoons sour cream
2 to 3 Tablespoons milk
In a large mixing bowl, combine cabbage, celery, green pepper, tomatoes, and pineapple. In a pint jar, combine salt and pepper, basil, tarragon, parsley, yogurt, sour cream, and milk. Put lid on jar and shake well to combine all. Pour over vegetables and stir gently to mix. Serves 4 to 6.
Easy Pizza Crust
3 Cups plain flour**
1 package yeast
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 Cup very warm water (120 to 130°F)
2 Tablespoons olive oil
In large bowl combine 2 Cups flour, undissolved yeast, and salt. Stir water and oil into dry ingredients. Mix enough remaining flour to make a soft dough. Knead on floured surface until smooth, about 5 minutes. Cover and let rest 10 minutes. Place dough on a greased 10” x 15” rectangular baking sheet or a greased 12” to 15” round baking sheet. Grease fingers and gently push dough into desired shape leaving a slight elevation at the edges to keep sauce from running over. Add toppings as desired and bake in 425°F oven for about 20 minutes until crust is golden.
**Substitute 1 Cup whole wheat flour for 1 Cup plain flour if desired.
Pineapple and Ham Pizza Topping
1 Cup tomato-based pizza sauce
1 Cup grated mozzarella cheese
3/4 Cup cooked ham, in one-quarter inch dice
3/4 Cup pineapple, in one-quarter inch dice
1 teaspoon Italian spices
Layer ingredients on Easy Pizza Crust and bake per crust directions. Makes 8 servings.
Pineapple, Pepper and Olive Pizza Topping
(recipe adapted from Dole Pineapple)
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon dried, crushed basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried, crushed oregano leaves
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 1/2 Cups shredded mozzarella
1 Cup roasted red pepper strips, drained
1 Cup crushed pineapple, drained
1/2 Cup sliced ripe olives
In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, basil, oregano, and olives. Use a pastry brush to spread mixture on Easy Pizza Crust. Layer on remaining ingredients in order given. Bake per crust directions. Makes 8 servings.
Pineapple Curried Chicken Salad
2 Cups cooked chicken, diced in one-half inch cubes
1 1/2 Cup apple, peeled, cored, diced in one-half inch pieces
1/4 Cup pineapple, crushed, drained
2 Tablespoons onion, minced
1/4 Cup walnuts, chopped
1/4 Cup plain yogurt (non-fat is fine)
2 Tablespoons mayonnaise (non-fat is fine)
1 teaspoon curry powder, mild to hot as preferred
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a mixing bowl, combine chicken, apple, pineapple, onion, and walnuts. In a cup, mix yogurt, mayonnaise, curry powder, salt, and pepper until smooth. Pour over chicken mixture and stir gently. Cover and chill before serving. Looks very nice served on lettuce leaves or on pineapple rind boats. Makes 4 servings.
Butternut Squash or West Indian Pumpkin with Pineapple
1 medium butternut squash or 1 very small West Indian pumpkin
2 Tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 Cup crushed pineapple with its juice
Cut squash or pumpkin in half lengthwise. Scoop out all the seeds and fibers. Place cut sides down on a greased baking sheet. Bake at 350°F for 45 to 50 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and with a large spoon, scoop out insides. Place in a mixing bowl and add butter, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, ginger, salt, pepper, and pineapple. Put mixture in a casserole dish and return to oven to bake for 5 minutes more or until bubbly. Makes 6 servings.
Pineapple Fritters
2 Cups fresh pineapple chunks
1 Scotch Bonnet or other hot pepper, seeded, minced
5 blades chives, minced
1 onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
8 green onions, minced
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 1/4 Cups flour
1/2 Cup milk
2 eggs, beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 Cup vegetable oil
In a large bowl, combine pineapple chunks, hot pepper, chives, onion, garlic, and onions. Cover and set aside at room temperature. In a small mixing bowl, using an electric mixer, blend turmeric, flour, milk, and eggs to make a thick batter. Cover and chill for 4 hours.
In the large bowl, add chilled flour mixture to pineapple mixture. Heat oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Drop batter by spoonfuls into hot oil and fry until golden on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve cold. Makes 6 servings.
Pasta with Shrimp and Pineapple
1 pound shell pasta, cooked by package directions, drained, rinsed, cooled
12 ounces medium shrimp, cooked, cooled, peeled
1 16-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained
1/2 medium pineapple, cut in chunks, drained (reserve juice)
2 Tablespoons reserved pineapple juice
2 large ripe mangoes, diced
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large bowl, combine all and mix gently. Serve chilled on a bed of lettuce or in pineapple boats. Makes 4 servings.
Fried Rice with Pineapple, Shrimp, Chicken and Ham
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 Cups cooked rice, cold
1/4 Cup small raw shrimp, peeled, in one-half inch dice
1 Cup cooked chicken breast, in one-half inch dice
1/4 Cup cooked ham, in one-half inch dice
2 green onions, sliced, including tops
1/4 Cup fresh or frozen green peas, cooked
1/4 Cup fresh pineapple, chopped
1 dash rice wine vinegar
Put oil in a wok over high heat. When hot, add rice and stir-fry for two minutes. Add shrimp, chicken, and ham and stir fry an additional two minutes. Add onions, peas, and pineapple and stir fry another two minutes until all ingredients are heated through. Add rice wine vinegar, mix well, and serve. Makes 4 servings.
Pineapple Dessert Pizza
1 recipe Easy Pizza Crust (see above)
2 eight-ounce packages cream cheese, softened
1/2 Cup sugar
6 tablespoons flour
2 egg yolks
1 1/3 Cups crushed pineapple (drained)
2/3 Cup strawberry jam
2 Tablespoons almonds, toasted
Divide dough in half and spread gently onto two greased 12” round baking sheets. Set aside. In a mixing bowl, combine cream cheese, sugar, flour, and egg yolks. Beat until smooth. Stir in pineapple and spread over crusts. Bake at 410°F for about 15 minutes or until crusts are golden. Remove from oven and spread half of jam over each pizza and sprinkle nuts on top. Good hot or cooled. Makes 16 servings — great for potluck!
Impressive Pink Stuff in a Bowl
(the easiest dessert you’ll ever make!)
1 can cherry or strawberry pie filling
1 Cup crushed pineapple, drained
1 can sweetened condensed milk
1 envelope prepared Dream Whip or tub Cool Whip
Put all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Chill several hours and serve. Looks pretty served in wine glasses decorated with a strip of pineapple. (If you keep these ingredients already chilled in the refrigerator, you can have this ready in minutes.) Makes 6 to 8 servings.
- The Encarta 2006 Encyclopedia defines a Fibonacci sequence of numbers as “an unending series of numbers in which each number except for the first two is the sum of the preceding two, e.g. 0,1,1,2,3,5,8…. Such sequences frequently have applications in botany, psychology, and astronomy. After Leonardo Fibonacci, 13th century Italian mathematician.”
