Story and photos by Lexi Fisher & Chris Doyle
St. Kitts and Nevis are two distinct islands under a single country. St. Kitts has a large cruise ship port, a bustling waterfront shopping mall, and many activities that cater to the 4,000-some daily cruise ship visitors during the tourism season. Nevis is a little quieter, with some excellent restaurants, an interesting history, and many sites well-preserved by an active historical society.
St. Kitts is green and pleasant, with a dramatically steep central mountain range rising to 3,750 feet. Much of it is covered in rainforest, which is often shrouded in passing clouds. At these heights live many thousands of African green vervet monkeys, descendants of a few originally brought here as pets by planters. The land between the mountains and the sea is gently sloping and fertile, relatively flat, and easy to drive on. For many generations this was planted in sugar cane, which was abandoned some years ago and now the cane fields are slowly reverting to woodland.
The Caribs called St. Kitts “Liamuiga,” which means “fertile isle.” Columbus renamed it after his patron saint. Sir Thomas Warner landed here with a group of settlers in 1623, making it the first British Caribbean colony. A French group joined them, and the two nations teamed up to massacre the 2,000 Carib inhabitants before they fell out between themselves. After 150 years of fighting and uncertainty, St. Kitts, with its sister isle, Nevis, became British under the treaty of Versailles in 1783. Today it is a fully independent, twin-island state with a British tradition and about 50,000 inhabitants.
In outstanding visual beauty, these islands have not changed too much from the old plantation days. Most of the large estates have been converted to small luxury hotels and restaurants. The economy, once based on sugar cane, shifted to tourism in 2005.
A railway, built for collecting the sugar cane, once ran right round the island, passing through perfectly scenic countryside. St. Kitts Scenic Railway renovated part of this so you can take a rail tour, which offers spectacular views. You need to book well in advance (465-7263).
In the north, St. Kitts Marine Works haulout, with its Telca Marina under Brimstone Hill, is working and practical. In the south, Christophe Harbour, an upmarket marina and development, is open. A Budget Marine chandlery is now open, and for a while the customs and immigration procedures were simplified, and the whole yachting industry was looking up. Unfortunately, St. Kitts and Nevis have recently resurrected the eAPIS regulations, and some officers insist you fill out this additional online form when clearing in.
The big local regatta is the three-day Booby Island Regatta which includes such races as Chase the Monkey and a round Nevis race called “Round the Rock.”
Nevis is less than two nautical miles south of St. Kitts, and looks like a sombrero, peaked in the center and low around the edges. Clouds usually cap Nevis Peak, which is over 3,000 feet high. On occasion, they cling to the summit and fall down the sides, looking like snow. Some say this is why Columbus named it “Nuestra Señora de las Nieves” (Our Lady of the Snows), after one of his favorite churches.
Early attempts were made to settle the island from St. Kitts in 1628. The first town, called Jamestown, was built near Fort Ashby, but it sank into the sea after an earthquake and tidal wave in 1680. Various battles between the British and the French hampered development until 1783, when Nevis became British for an extended time. It flourished as a plantocracy, and there are many old plantations and sugar mills on the island. The old mills are crumbling, but the plantations have been converted into hotels where visitors can relive those old days without the evils of slavery upon which they were built.
With a population of around 11,000, Nevis is quiet and peaceful, with lovely views, picturesque houses, and delightful people. Exploring the island is highly recommended. Nevisians have been careful to preserve their architectural heritage and many traditional Caribbean-style buildings survive. Quite a few are highlighted along the Nevis Heritage Trail.
The mountain is clad in dense forest and, with a suitable guide, you can make it all the way to the peak. The less energetic can visit the Golden Rock Estate, buy a trail map, and take a stroll or hike. Going at 1530 will give the best chance of seeing wild greenback monkeys. Return for tea in the majestic garden setting of the estate.
Since St. Kitts and Nevis are the same country, you don’t need to clear customs or immigration to travel between them. So, when you get tired of the duty-free shopping and the hustle and bustle of St. Kitts, make the short passage south to Nevis for an excellent meal at one of the many beachside restaurants or historic inns, or spend some time exploring the Heritage Trail.
Doyle Guides contains the Eastern Caribbean’s most comprehensive and reliable sailing guide content, available in hard copy and online through a free mobile app, website, and Facebook group. (www.doyleguides.com).
St. Kitts & Nevis Entry and Exit Procedures from Noonsite
Ports of Entry:
Charlestown is the port of entry for Nevis. During the yachting season (November to May) Christophe Harbour Marina is the most straightforward port of entry for St. Kitts. Otherwise, popular anchorages at Ballast Bay or Whitehouse Bay can be used with a taxi to Basseterre to complete clearance, or anchor and clear at Port Zante Marina.
Advance Paperwork:
For Immigration and Customs you have to fill in three forms online in advance:
- SailClear
- Online Immigration and Customs ED form
3. Advance Passenger Information System (APIS)
Entry Process:
On Nevis, the authorities are all located in the same building, which is open year-round, so clearance is straightforward.
On St. Kitts from November to May clearance is easy at Christophe Harbour Marina, but more complicated at Basseterre with Customs at Port Zante Marina and Immigration and Port Authority at the cruise ship building (weekends Immigration is only at the airport). It is likely you will be able to clear in and out with Immigration at the same time. A visa isn’t required for citizens of many countries including most western and northern European countries, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US for stays of up to 90 days. Coastal mooring permits must be obtained prior to visiting other areas around the coast of Nevis. If moving between Nevis and St. Kitts, clearance is not required.
Exit Process:
To check out you need to complete forms 1 and 3, 24 hours in advance of departure.
Rates:
https://www.noonsite.com/place/st-kitts-nevis/view/fees
St. Kitts clearance costs are lower than those in Nevis. In Nevis, fees must be paid in cash. There are Customs charges and harbour dues to pay on both islands, but no Immigration costs. Marinas that have Customs and Immigration on site charge an administration fee.
This information is provided by Noonsite.com, specialists in worldwide formalities for yachts, and was accurate at press time. Check https://www.noonsite.com/place/st-kitts-nevis/view/clearance/for more details and updates.
